So that is how we start our Vienna adventure. We take our GPS and go to the centre of the city. Seems to us now that we completely forgot how to find our way without the navigator – since we cannot find the right direction for quite a long time. But then we take out the GPS and with its help get to the very centre of Vienna. What can we say – to our mind, after the amazing picturesque places of the Southern Austria, Vienna is just too urban… Although, of course, to each – their own. We are more of nature freaks than the fans of architecture, but if you prefer to observe amazing buildings you are welcome to the Austrian capital because here you will find plenty…

The first one we see is St. Stephen’s Cathedral – and we even climb to its tower by going 343 stairs up to enjoy the view of Vienna from the top of the Cathedral. The only disadvantage is that there is no open viewing platform and we have to observe the city from the windows.

When we go down, nearby the Cathedral we find the Deutsch Orden Church that is 800 years old.

After dinner we go to visit the Hofburg Palace – the former residence of the Austrian government, and spend some time in a garden surrounding it. In the evening we take a metro to the Prater Park – the most famous entertainment park in Austria. It’s mostly suitable for kids, yet we quite enjoy our being there and even enjoy some of games and attractions it offers. After Prater, we go back to the hotel (the way to which we had to search using our navigator again…)

Next morning we go to Schönbrunn Palace – perhaps, one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Austrian capital. The most interesting part of the palace for us is the labyrinth, so we search for it… but it’s a huge disappointment as it seems to be built for kids – its walls only go up to the waist level and we can see it all from the above. Then we just sit and relax next to the famous Schönbrunn fountains. And after than go to see the beautiful Vienna opera palace, the House of Hundertwasser and the Burgtheater. The Bugtheater turns out to be the most impressive place in the whole Vienna for us! Mostly because of the atmosphere that is there in that area. We hear the sounds of opera music and soon discover that there is a huge screen at the square rights in front of the theater. So this creates exactly the impression that Vienna was connected in our minds with.

After the Burgtheater we go to the UNO-city which turns out to be just a complex of four modern rivers on the river bank. At night it is hardly distinct, anyway we are happy that we have seen it. After this we go to the hotel and sleep till the next morning – tomorrow we go to Germany.

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At the entrance there is an option to create music using different objects – there is a table with various objects, and a special ray is scanning them creating a piece of music that depends on their layout. The next floor is totally devoted to a sort of ‘Gulliver’s World’: you take a special cube, insert it into the computer and program any character you wish (according to certain parameters, e.g. name, age, race, gender, looks, etc). Then there is a table where you can put your cube – and then, using a 3D camera and a screen, you are able to see the way this world looks. Instead of cubes there are these characters that the visitors have created. The interesting thing about this world is that no physical laws are valid there. Moreover, you can get some 3D eyeglasses for your impressions to be completely realistic and ‘fly’ all over this cyber-world. This flight simulator requires from you to use your hands so that to give the right angle to the flight – you may virtually fly anywhere and see the movements of your legs and hands.

In the museum there are also Musicbottles that are filled with various pieces of music, 3D scanner, a machine that translates the voice into a picture (you just say anything into a microphone, and it generates a picture with certain colours and symbols). There are also some robots. And surely some simulation programmes.

The restaurant in the museum has an excellent view on the city, but regrettably they do not serve schnitzels.  So we get back into our car and go to Vienna, searching for schnitzel in every single restaurant we meet on our way. It takes us more than 20 minutes to finally find a Gasthaus – and to our relief, the desired dish is served there, and after eating it we go further on. We go along Danube which is pretty contaminated and very wide, and pass by a picturesque St. Nikola valley – however, to my mind, it cannot be compared to the beauty of the south Austria.

The last place to visit on our way to Vienna is Aggstein Castle. We can see it on the top of the mountain, however the roads towards it seem a bit scary, and it’s t

oo

far to go by feet as well. But soon we discover a sign of a labyrinth so we go there and find a labyrinth itself – made in a corn field. The corn is quite high – more than 7 feet – so the labyrinth is quite challenging.

Having paid a couple of euro for the entrance, we get instructed to find a pile of stones and bring a stone from there and receive the map of the labyrinth together with these instructions. However, all stones and bridges are marked on the map so we prefer not to use the map to make the quest more challenging.

After finding our way out, we receive some sort of mock certificate for bringing the stone (the certificate is signed by ‘the founder of the castle’, mind you!). After that – we go to Vienna and make it to the city by 9 P.M. Finally! We find our hotel, park the car, find a nice coffee shop with amazing cakes and that is how our eights day in Austria comes to its end.

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This is the first time in Austria that we have a problem finding a place where schnitzel is served. Most restaurants offer seafood, and only one offers this traditional Austrian dish. Amazing!

After that we get to the parking where we left our car and decide to go and see some wonderful mountain lakes close to Hallstadt that we heard of. But because the rain starts again, we have to go back to Bad Ischl where we have our hotel booked. It takes us not more than half an hour to go around the whole town, but we spend about 2 hours looking at the fast running river. After that we go to Sankt Gilgen that is only 9,35 miles from Bad Ischl and enjoy the view on the lake. That is how our day ends.

On the next day, we also just rest and relax and enjoy ourselves and the Austrian landscapes full of mountains and lakes. Finally the sunny weather – and we go to Sankt Wolfgang again so that to take a train to Schafberg – a mountain 5570 feet high from which there is an excellent view on all the lakes in Salzkammergut! Excited at this perspective we drive there, park our car (incredible but the parking is completely empty!) and prepare to take the train to Shafberg. However when we get to the train station, we change our minds – first of all, the price of the ticket (40 euro) seems a bit too high, taking into account that we have already seen plenty of Austrian views from the height; secondly the tourists are supposed to stay on top of that mountain for an hour, and it is a bit too cold there (41F).

So we go back to our car and decide to explore Sankt Wolfgang again. It looks so much better on a sunny day! The mountains are seen clearly (before they were covered in fog), the lakes are tremendously beautiful with their clear sparking water… So we are happy. It seems that Sankt Wolfgang is a place to relax and enjoy the views, however this trip of ours turns out to be completely different.

The matter is that on our way to Sankt Wolfgang we see the plan of Wolfgangsee lake, and there is some mountain lake called Schwarzsee (‘black lake’) nearby, so surely we decide to go there. This turns out to be a private lake so we pay for entering this territory, but… it is certainly worth it! In this paradise, we decide that these views are the best of whatever we have already seen in Austria! Idyllic pictures of the lake, mountains and glimpses of nature – the ones of the kind that one would normally see in advertising booklets or magazines.

After this fairy-tale place we decide to see Traunkirche – the church that has been standing on the edge of a mountain for 200 years. There is a nice village there so we walk a bit and enjoy the views. After coming back to Bad Ischl, we have cakes in a small restaurant, watch the Bad Ischl river for about an hour, and go back to our hotel to get prepared to tomorrow’s trip to Vienna!

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The view from Hochosterwitz, as pretty much everywhere in Austria, was really amazing. Although, I would say, Landskron is prettier. And the Hochosterwitz Castle is not particularly interesting. So we went around it, had a look, listened to some Austrian songs that somebody sung inside the castle, and went further on.

After passing by some small and pretty lakes, we again start ascending to the Alps. Kärnten is the area of Austria that is totally surrounded by the Alps, so it is impossible to go into or go outside this area without crossing the mountains. The road here is not as high as in Grossglockner – the maximum we had to go up was 6250 feet high – and the views are not so impressive. By the way, if you choose to ride the paid autobahn, getting to the necessary place will be faster but the views are not nearly as nice.

We have lunch and make our way to the Blue Dome World of Water – a thematic leisure park devoted to water. According to the promotional materials, this park is equally enjoyed by grown-ups and kids, and it has some water show, etc., etc. This park is named after the blue lake near which it is located. From the descriptions, we understood that the park area was quite huge – so we expected to find something really impressive. However, this turned out to be the biggest surprise for us in Austria – the only thing we found was a small unsighty house, and next to it – a pile of stones and a crowd of people. So we come closer and see something that remotely resembles the picture of the Blue Dome. At the picture the place looks much, much prettier though… We actually start thinking that this Blue Dome is made from something that resembles a stall!

Anyway, since we have already come here, we decide we would have a look at the Blue Dome World of Water anyway. It consists of both outdoor and indoor areas. The stones at the entrance inside the park look like a pair of giant hands – such a view promises something interesting inside. The water is falling through these hands, and from distance it seems as we have to walk under the pouring water to get into the... well, stall. The impressions were not particularly profound or exciting – we see demonstrations of some physical effects of water, of the water’s role in shaping the caves and mountains of the area, participate in a ‘superb flight around the lake’… and so we are not really happy about it. Anyway, we leave the park and go further on.

Since we don’t have plans for this day, we decide to go to Saint Wolfgang – a stunningly beautiful town at the Worfgangsee lake. We take a walk around the lake and enjoy the view a lot, but when the rain starts we have to hide in some coffee shop.

Since the rain has not finished yet, we go back to our hotel. So that is how the fifth day of our Austrian adventure is over!

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The first lake has an amazing view… with the mountains and the forest surrounding it and the small little chalets at the mountain top… There are so many bicyclists around the area that we suddenly get an urge to stay there too, enjoy the views, visit multiple cafés and restaurants – and of course do a bit of cycling as well! But we’ve already got plans, and we still need to do a lot more sightseeing and besides the water is still quite chilly – so we go around the lake to see the Ossiach Abbey, the Castle Landskron (which is quite impressive, although is all in ruins), and then go to another lake, Wörthersee – the warmest lake in Austria. We stop by Maria Wörth church and enjoy the park near it.

Further along the lake there is Piramidenkögel – a peak with an excellent view to the lake that is 1700 meters high. We take an elevator to this peak and enjoy the view to both lakes through the binoculars, looking close at the boats and the houses and the rest of the beautiful views of the neighborhood.

After Piramidenkögel we go to the Minimundus – ‘the world in miniature’ exhibition. Again – a couple of dozen minutes spent in a fight for a space in two huge parking places – and here we go, after making several circles around the parking zone, we manage to get into a free space. So we become absolutely firm in our conviction that parking is quite a problem in Austria…

Anyway, most important is Minimundus. Here it is possible to see all most famous and amazing buildings and sights of the whole world in about an hour or two! We really loved viewing them, taking pleasure in both looking at those that we did not yet have a chance to see ‘in full scale’, and those that we have seen in the original and could compare to their Minimundus counterparts! Here we found Eiffel Tower, Saint Peter’s Basilica, the Statue of Liberty, Sydney Opera House, Taj Mahal, White House, the launch pad of the space shuttle – and many, many other amazing constructions. You may see some of them at the photos, but we highly recommend that you see them with your own eyes!

We found the Vatican square – we recently took photos in the actual, ‘full-size’ location, so it’s really kind of cool to make a similar photographs not under the column but above it. All the buildings are recreated just the way they are – with the scale about 1:25, and all of them being made really meticulously, with the slightest and finest details of the originals reproduced… If you photograph them separately, so that the scale is not noticeable at the picture, you can hardly tell them at the photos from the original ones. Some of the constructions are animated! The small mills are working, the small trains are going to and fro, the crane is loading and unloading the cargo… So, it is quite interesting and impressive!

However, two hours there is more than enough, because after that, your brain just cannot perceive any more information. So we say goodbye and thank you to the Minimundus and have lunch – of course, schnitzel, because it is so traditional for Austria!

Although we have fulfilled our plans for the day, there was still plenty of time so we decided to see something we planned to visit later during our trip and went to Magdalensberg that was only about 12 miles from our hotel. Again – the road with abrupt turns and the cows walking freely alongside. We looked at the excavation sites that featured the remnants of Celtic and Roman cultures, and then got ourselves onto the top of the hill and enjoyed the wonderful sunset.

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There is still raining, and there does not seem to be an end to it.

On our way there we stop by a small water mill – the last one of the kind, and it is situated in German territory, not Austrian.

It took us all in all five hours to get to the Krimml Waterfalls, including a lunch break. All the time there is still raining, however in some places the fog becomes thinner, and the view is quite nice. In several places we stop so that to see the scenic viewpoints. For driving on all autobahns in Austria, you have to pay. However the difference in time spent for the travelling by autobahn or ordinary road is not very huge. So it is totally up to you whether you pay for a faster ride or not.

Finally we arrive to the place… park our car and follow the arrows showing the path towards the waterfall. The Krimml Waterfalls are truly very impressive! First of all, we heard the roaring of water while we were still walking on the path. Secondly, when we find ourselves in the nearest closeness to the water, we are enchanted by its majestic beauty… The water is thundering, and the view is really majestic… There is a small brook and a mini-waterfall close to the place. It is also possible to go up the mountain so that to have a look at the view from there.

After we leave the waterfalls, we continue driving so that to get to the High Alpine Road that lays through the mountains. The ascent of the alpine road is more than 2 kilometres (!!!), and the highway serpentinous road is interesting in itself of course. The whole road is more than 48 kilometres long, and the driving experience there is truly unique. Yet sometimes scary. The bends are quite many and very abrupt (180° turns are at approximately each 200 metres of the road!), and there is snow everywhere.

From time to time, we see the parking places on the road which are specifically designed for you to take some rest, read about the flora and fauna of the place, take pictures and so on. On our way we drive through the cloud, and can hardly see anything – so it’s a bit scary… Especially scary, as it turned out, was descending – even the 40km/h speed seems cosmic on this kind of road, especially when as you drive nearer the 180° turns. Oh, and do not forget that to the right hand side there is a downfall… With the temperature of the air 3.5 degrees and 1900 metres height, we feel as if we are onboard of a plane!
We skipped the observation peak with the height of 3000 meters because the snow seemed extremely thick there – so we decided we better not take such a risk. However, we got nearly to the same height at the highest point of the road – 2500 meters.

The views that we observed from the windows of our car were amazing… alpine meadows, mountain cliffs, forests, cows, lake and even a brook… these all are truly beautiful! The air is so clean. But of course it was a bit scary driving all the way there, with these turns and everything…

At the end of the day we arrived to the small town named Spital. The journey continues! Tomorrow – new impressions and new sights...

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Anyway, we get inside the palace and discover that the most interesting things there are the trick fountains (die Wasserspiele in German) that are everywhere around the castle – hidden in the trees or coming out from the most unexpected places like benches, pavilions or even sculptures. These fountains were installed by Prince Archbishop Markus Sittikus von Hohenems who was the one to have this palace built by the famous Italian architect Santino Solari. The palace served as a summer residence for the Prince Archbishop. Apart from the trick fountains, we also really loved the magnificent park surrounding the palace full of trees, bushes and statues of historical and mythical characters. Of course we got sprinkled with water from the Wasserspiele many times – although the effect was not so great taking into account the pouring rain… if it were not for the rain, then most probably the effect from the fountains would be much more shocking.

After the palace we went to the  Dürrnberg Salt Mines that are located 14 kilometres from Salzburg. Although the rain was becoming more and more powerful, it did not matter as the mines are underground. We were given white garments that protected our clothes in the narrow tunnels of the mines, and then we were ridden on the small mine train on wooden mine slides inside the mines at quite a slow speed – probably not more than 10 km/h. These salt mines are some of the oldest and biggest show mines in the world! We got to know about the history of the salt mines from the films that we were shown on the way. Oh, and there also was an underground lake. Anyway, as soon as we left the mines, we discovered that it was still raining like hell, so we had to skip all museums and attractions located in the open air just outside the mines – including the real Celtic village.

So, another location we chose was also covered from rain – Eisriesenwelt, the biggest ice cave on Earth. It is still raining, and certainly inside the cave the temperature is below zero so we wear warm sweaters – luckily we took them with us! Anyway, to tell you the truth, we were a bit disappointed seeing the inside of the cave – it is a compete darkness, and even with the flashlights we are only able to see about a couple of metres in front of us. And surely there is ice. Ice is everywhere. In the darkness it does not look pretty at all, unlike the ice sparkling at the sun. But the guide tells us about the history of the cave, the names of the icicles, the stories about the travelers who explored these caves, etc. And this makes the journey easier. At the very top of the cave we see the ‘organ’ piece of ice – it really resembles an organ, and normally they would play organ music there – but now some mechanism is broken…

Having left the cave after 1.5 hours, we discover that +10 is actually quite a warm weather! Although it is still raining, we don’t feel cold at all… And we go straight to the hotel striving for a hot bath and tasty Austrian schnitzel. All other adventures are postponed till tomorrow. We warm up, eat and relax till the next morning…

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So we go around Ulm and have a look at its centre and the university. In fact we like the place most of all other places we saw in Germany… on the one hand, it is big enough, and at the same time very cozy and nice. Its huge University is quite interesting in design and is surrounded by a huge park… Ulm is located on the hills – so it reminds us of San Francisco a bit. Danube divides the city into two parts – Ulm and Neu Ulm (New Ulm). That is where the border of Bavaria begins as well! So when you cross the bridge – you find yourself in a different Bundesland.

All streets of Ulm are crammed with parked cars. So we find it hard to find a parking slot. Finally we manage to find a vacant place – the last one, actually! – in a Deutschhaus 6 storey parking. After having spent about half a day in Ulm, we went to Austria, and our first goal was the famous village named… ‘Fucking’ that is not far from Salzburg, the birthplace of W.-A. Mozart.

So… we certainly took a photo of the famous board with the name of the village on it. And even got a warning from a guy who came out of one of the houses, observed us suspiciously and then said that he had had our car numbers written down and in case we stole the sign he would call the police. It turned out that the sign was being stolen many times!

Concerning the village’s… hmmmm… let us say – unusual name, the village was created – and named – more than a thousand years ago. So people just would not know that someday, this word that they have chosen to name the village would mean something different in other languages.

We continued our journey aroung Austria by car and went to Salsburg - but that is another story...

To be continued shortly.

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We were in Organ Pipe National Monument, which is located in southwestern Arizona, right along the Mexico border. As the park website says, "This is where summer goes for the winter". Camping in the middle of winter is a pleasure here, and you're apt to find t-shirt weather in December and January. Camping in the summer? If you like hot weather! July averages 25 days over 100 degrees.

Desert hiking at Organ Pipe Natl Monument

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Organ Pipe is part of the Sonoran Desert, set aside to allow the natural flora and fauna of this region to flourish, largely untouched and unspoiled. It's part of an International Biosphere Reserve established by the United Nations in 1976, that also encompasses part of Mexico.

Camped by an organ pipe cactus

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Like other parts of the Sonoran Desert around Phoenix and Tucson, Arizona, you'll see plenty of the tall, stately saguaro cacti here, with their single trunk and branching arms. Unlike the rest of the Sonoran desert in the US, here you'll also find many Organ Pipe cacti - the eponymous species of the park. These are also large cacti, but with many arms branching up from a central base. (Hey, I couldn't help myself - how many chances do I get to use "eponymous"?)
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Alamo Campground was was wonderful! It's a primitive campground, with no running water, and just 4 spacious tent sites, so we had the whole campground to ourselves. It was quiet, serene, and so beautiful.
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The one element that was both comforting and unsettling was the number of Border Patrol agents that came through the campground, but more about that later.

But what about the mountain of garlic?

Desert vista from Mt. Ajo trail

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And about those border patrol guys? Of course, this international reserve is now divided by a fence. Judging from this picture of the border fence, it looks like even I could climb over it, but I have read that it has stopped considerable illegal vehicle traffic over the border, and through the wilderness areas of the reserve.

Well, there have been plenty of incidents along the border, including a few in the National Monument, but I really can't believe that it's now unsafe to visit our own National Parks. That would be too much like admitting defeat, turning part of our national parks system into a no-man's land. (Which would have some logic to it, if it was for the protection of the land and the wildlife, but not if it's just to chase drug runners and illegal immigrants!)

Relaxing on the trail up Mt. Ajo

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It's a shame that the backcountry areas of Organ Pipe are closed indefinitely to overnight camping, due to an increase in illegal border activity. When our own National Parks system is off-limits to us, that seems too much like admitting defeat. Fortunately, I'm sure it's temporary, and I look forward to a day when we can explore and backpack in the more remote areas of the park.

And thanks to all of the people who are keeping it as safe as it is, and who will (I'm sure of it) win this battle at some point.

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Organ Pipe National Monument is one of the less visited gems of the US National Parks system. It's pretty out of the way from almost anywhere, but if you're looking for an inexpensive outdoor adventure that's warm in the winter, this is a great place to check out!
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My previous "walking on glacier" experience had been at the Columbia Ice Field, in the Canadian Rockies.  While that was interesting (and shocking, to see how quickly that ice has receded), it didn't prepare me for Perito Moreno glacier, in Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina.

Mini-trekking on Perito Moreno glacier, Argentina

Perito Moreno was one of the stops on our Patagonia tour, and our aim for the day was to strap on some crampons, and go out "mini-trekking" on the glacier. We took a boat across Lago Argentina in front of the glacier, and a short walk through the woods, then emerged at the edge of the glacier, where we donned our gear.
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The first surprise was how rugged the surface of the glacier was.  It was all steep hills up and down, with jagged peaks of ice towering over our trail. You can tell from the pictures this is no smooth field of snow!  As we walked along, we passed holes in the ice filled with frigid water and the distinctive blue light of the glacier, and crevasses that went down who knows how far...
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Perito Moreno glacier is one of 48 glaciers connected to the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, high in the Andes mountains of South America. The ice field straddles the border of Chile and Argentina, with glaciers reaching out in both directions. Only three of the glaciers are growing, and Perito Moreno is one of them.

The glacier moves several feet/day, constantly breaking off at the front edge

The glacier is a slow-moving river of ice, advancing several feet per day. At its front end, at Lago Argentina, there's a vertical wall of ice about 200 feet high. Enormous slabs of ice are constantly falling off the front of the glacier, so that the ice keeps moving, but the front stays in pretty much the same place. With this constant shifting of ice, every morning, the glacier guides have to scout out a new route for the day's tours.

The guides are experts, who straddled crevasses cavalierly, as though it was the most natural thing in the world. Their stories of off-duty adventure were astonishing.

One guide said the most dangerous thing he ever did was free climb up the face of the glacier. (He said he would never do that one again - unless somebody bet him a lot of money!) This is 200 feet up a wall of ice that's constantly breaking off! We saw numerous huge chunks calve off and crash into the lake while we were there, testament to the constantly shifting nature of Perito Moreno.

Scotch on the (very old) rocks!

But the tale of derring-do that took my breath away was scuba diving in the glacier.  Those holes in the blue ice we passed that were filled with freezing water?  They'd find a large hole that looked promising, and scuba dive into it, following wherever it would lead.  I get shivery and claustrophobic just thinking about it!  And with the ice continuing its relentless forward march, who knows how long the hole you came through will be there?

Ah well, there's a reason they're out there doing glacier diving, while I'm sitting with my laptop writing a blog post about it!

At the end of our Perito Moreno mini-trek, we got a nice surprise - a little scotch on the rocks.  In this case, the rocks were "millennial ice" - glacier ice that's a thousand years old.  Most places the scotch is older then the ice, but not here!

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I'm not sure when we'll be back in Argentina, but the next time we do our women's trip to Patagonia, I definitely want to include Perito Moreno again. It was quite a highlight, and so much fun. Definitely recommended!
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